In the beginning…
A decade ago my husband built me my first low rider randonneur bike frame and fitted it with the very best bells and whistles. Son hub with integrated lights. Chromed pannier racks complete with hand made Berthoud canvas and leather bags. 650B wheels with 42mm ultralight balloon tyres.
I’m the first to admit I had no idea what a low trail bicycle even was. A bike is a bike, right? Not really. A beautifully balanced, custom built bicycle is a pleasure and a joy to ride. It can be ridden for hours without discomfort. I agree, that is definitely one of those things you have to experience to believe. I had no idea fellow cyclists would stop me along the way asking my opinion of front panniers vs rear and we would ride together in parallel discussing in depth the pros and cons of each. I continue to this day assuring people I do not get a sore rear end being on my bike for so many hours. I let them know it is my legs they should be concerned about.
He peddled the idea of riding through cobblestone streets and vineyards, from one end of Europe to the other, top to bottom. Or side to side if I would prefer. Cycle touring. More traditionally known as randonneuring.
At the time, I was unconvinced that cycle touring around the world was my thing. My knowledge of the cycling world extended to lycra clad men riding the river loop that went straight past our house, people who stayed up all night to watch ‘the stages’ of the Tour de France and mad mountain bikers who took to gravel trails in a cycle form of four wheel driving. None of which fitted with the style of French Randonneuring my husband seemed to be talking about.
What is this French Randonneuring I asked?
The technical answer goes like this. Randonneuring is long-distance unsupported endurance cycling. It is non-competitive in nature, and self-sufficiency is paramount. In randonneuring events, a pre-determined course is ridden to be completed within a fairly generous time limit. Along the route, you document that you have passed through a series of checkpoints. Think getting your stamps as you’re walking the Camino. Randonneuring events are part of a long tradition that goes back to the beginning of the sport of cycling in France and Italy.
I still wasn’t convinced firstly that it was possible - I couldn’t imagine riding on an autobahn. And as an aside, how do you cross borders on your bike? I was warming up to my version of a randonnee - riding from one French village to another, croissant for breakfast and duck a l’orange for lunch. But, I had a few final things to clarify before I was getting on my bike and riding across Europe.
Here were the answers from my bike builder husband.
Accomodation - the very best hotels along the way. No you do not need to take a tent. Right answer.
Kilometres per day - however many you can manage my darling. He really wants to do this. I could work with this.
Luggage - 8 kilograms. Easy, I was already a cabin luggage only kind of girl.
I was in.
Ten years later, my naivety about long distance self supported cycling is behind me after planning and enjoying numerous tours of my own, each with many stages. I am a complete convert. I can think of no better way to see the world - slowly, with eyes that can see and ears that can hear.
